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Marion Street Gives Grill a Great Name |
| Chicago Sun-Times; November 20, 1998; Robert Tucker | |
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| When the sun goes down, the Marion Street Grille's dark awning is difficult to identify amid the brightly lit red awning of the neighborhood storefronts. If you didn't know exactly where this sophisticated Oak Park restaurant was located, you might drive right by it. But good things like the Marion Street Grille shouldn't be hidden. The restaurant, owned by Terry Thulis, opened in December, 1995 and is located only a block north of Downtown Oak Park's lively Lake Street. Inside the resaturant's understated, refined exterior thrives one of the near-west suburb's best dining experiences. Exposed brick walls, dim lighting and white tablecloths provide an upscale, urban setting. A couple of large, framed art posters adorn the walls. The dark, shadowy image from a Massiot poster not only appears on the restaurant's menu cover, but the image appears below a few of the restaurant's light fixtures as well. The dining room can seem romantic at times, yet it can become noisy and exciting. The quality of the food, however, remains steadfastly high. The menu declares the Marion Street Grille to be an "American Bistro," and although the menu is not huge, it offers a diverse selection of food. Flavors from New Orleans probably appear more than any other influence, but Cajun and Creole by no means dominate. Italian, French and traditional American cooking also are showcased, and ultimately what dominates at this retaurant is a firm appreciation of flavor. For starters, the shrimp bisque demands to be noticed. The rich, salty and mildly spicy bisque is addictively good. Shrimp receive further special treatment in the shrimp Creole appetizer. Plump shrimp lie in a pool of a tangy Creole sauce. Two tiny biscuits bursting with rosemary join the shrimp and push this appetizer's bold flavors even further. A couple of side salads are offered, and three salads - the chicken breast, New York strip and yellowfin tuna - can each serve as a light meal. The New York strip salad consists of a grilled steak served with plum tomatoes, red onions and mesclun greens with a horseradish dressing. Over a dozen entrees are listed on the menu, and specials are offered too. A duck special was something special indeed. A grilled, sliced, juicy peppercorn duck breast was covered with a sassy orange, honey and mustard glaze and served with tender Yukon gold potatoes with leeks. Fresh vegetables rolled into a tortilla accompanied the entrée. This is the kind of first class entrée that one hopes creates a following that demands it to become a regular menu item. The tuna steak Mediterranean is another entrée that won't leave taste buds wanting for more. The very large tuna steak - served perfectly medium rare - sits atop a splendid mix of tomatoes, basil, calamata olives and garlic. Desserts like cheesecake and sorbets are satisfying. Service generally is polite and knowledgeable. Overall the restaurant possesses a certain neighborhood comfort and charm, but this is the kind of restaurant worthy of being a destination for those not in the neighborhood. |
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