189 North Marion Street
Oak Park, Illinois
708.383.1551

For Savory Selection and Elegant Atmosphere, Meander Down to Marion Street
Wednesday Journal; July 7, 1999; Dawn Henle

On a recent Wednesday evening, my friend and I ventured out for dinner to avoid stoking up our stoves during another humid summer evening. We chose the Marion Street Grille, billed as an American Bistro, at 189 N. Marion in Oak Park. True to form, the restaurant featured the subtle elegance of a bistro combined with a friendly American-style hometown atmosphere.

Our server for the evening was pleasant, efficient and unimposing. Knowledgeable about the menu, she provided several excellent recommendations throughout the meal. In general, the staff maintains a friendly rapport with customers, creating a welcome environment for everything from family celebrations to quiet dinners for two.

The menu at Marion Street Grille offers a central list of appetizers, soups, salads, pastas and entrees, as well as a list featured wine and specials that change weekly. For an appetizer, our server recommended the Portabello Mushroom, in general, and New Orleans Style Shrimp Creole for something a little spicier. Since we both enjoy good Creole cooking, we selected the shrimp. The dish consisted of five plump shrimp topped with a colorful sauce and two petite rosemary biscuits. The presentation was tasteful, yet not overdone. The ingredients were very fresh, the biscuits dense and flavorful, and the sauce rich in garlic. There's nothing like the building taste sensation of a zesty Creole dish, and this recipe did not disappoint.

Although other patrons were enjoying the Shrimp Bisque or Chilled Creamy Cucumber soup, we selected a light salad to compliment our dinner. We decide to split the Marion Street Salad with Mesclun greens, plum tomato wedges, and sliced red onions tossed in house vinaigrette. Anchovies, blue cheese, and fresh ground pepper may also be added. We requested blue cheese on the side and discovered that special requests are readily accomodated. The vinaigrette was quite light - we found that a sprinkle of fresh bleu cheese gave added flavor and dimension.

For the main course, my companion selected Pasta Voila from the main menu, while I chose Hawaiian Oopa fillet from the list of specials. The pasta featured farfalle, grilled chicken, asparagus, and artichoke hearts in a light lemon alfredo, served with a choice of fresh ground pepper or freshly grated parmesan cheese. The alfredo was deliciously light and creamy with a subtle touch of lemon, an interestng diversion from the traditional heavy alfedo. Seard to order, the fish was served over wild rice pilaf and topped with a fresh tomato fennel relish. The fillet was tender ad meaty. The relish supplied a colorful confetti-like accent with bright diced tomatoes, thickly-sliced black olives, capers, onins, garlic and parsley flakes. The flavor it added was as palatable as its appearance.

The portions for each entrée were ample, leaving us plenty to take along for another meal. Our carry-out containers were marked with the entrée name and date. It was a pleasantly surprising touch for those, like us, who dine out frequently and rely on ready leftovers to carry our tastebuds through the week.

Dessert, we found, is a spectacle of flavor all unto its own. The featured desserts included crème brulee, chocolate tiramisu with kahlua syrup, and sorbettos in lemon, peach, orange or coconut. Although we were quite satisfied with our meal, the selections were too tempting to pass up. Our server insisted that the homemade chocolate tiramisu was not to be missed. We requested the tiniest sliver to taste, but preferred to finish off the experience with the light and creamy sorbettos.

If you (like me) believe that dessert should be decadent, skip the meal and order the tiramisu. It was deliciously rich and creamy, almost the consistency of a thick chocolate mousse, with a sprinkling of cinnamon. The sorbettos, however, were ideal afetr a full meal. Imported from Italy, they are artfully presented in the fruit from which they are flavored. The orange sorbetto filled the frozen peel of a citrus orange; the coconut arrived on the halfshell. It was the perfect ending to a wonderful dining experience. Dinner prices were moderate - our meal, complete with wine and after-dinner coffee, totaled about $80 including tax and tip.

Tucked discreetly into the back corner of the dining room, Marion Street Grille offers a separate bar area where patrons can have a quiet drink while waiting for a table or capping off an evening in Downtown Oak Park. Rather than feeling like your usual neighborhood tap, the beautiful dark wood and elegant décor give the nostalgic feel of a traditional European wine cellar. In addition to ambiance, Marion Street's bar offers a wide selection of cordials, cognacs, beers and wines. If you're a port drinker, you'll be happy to find five selections of Sandeman on the menu.

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